Sheldon Brown Locking Method
So here’s how I generally lock my Sturdy Commuting Bike (click to enlarge):
Essentially, this is Sheldon Brown’s method, using a D-Lock (or, if you like, U-Lock) to secure the rear wheel of the bike to a good sturdy, immovable object. Said object needs to be some sort of hoop, or tall enough, so that the bike can’t simply be lifted, lock & all over the top of it.
When you first look at Sheldon’s method, it seems wrong. Surely, all you have to do to steal the bike is remove the back wheel? Not so - it’s impossible to get the back wheel through the rear triangle, so by securing the rear wheel like this, the rest of the bike’s also locked.
I also use a secondary chunky cable lock to secure the front wheel, and provide a little more visibility to the fact that this is a locked bike.
Using two different types of locks is a great way to deter thieves, as they’ll need to use two different sets of tools, and take twice as long to do the job. Of course, to go the whole nine yards on this, the cable shouldn’t just be secured to the D-Lock, but should have its own separate lock. But this is my sturdy commuting bike - it’s heavy enough as it is without adding yet another lock, and it’s a pretty cheep bike (has to be, as it gets left in all sorts of places!)
Looking in detail at the U-Lock:
It’s a mid-price model from Kryptonite, costing about 10% of the price of the bike it’s protecting.
I’ve also not gone for the smallest lock I could get, but it’s still considerably smaller than some.
This is a vulnerability, as it means there’s sometimes space to get a bottle jack in there, which is the vulnerability in most D-Locks. However, this does give me a little more flexibility about what I lock my bike to, as it’s quite rare to find stands / racks / posts that are suitable for the smaller, harder to break locks.
Anyway, here are the key points for locking up like this:
- The lock secures the rear wheel to a suitable post
- Make sure the lock is within the rear triangle of the frame, and that way, the rear wheel cannot be simply removed.
- Spend about 10% of your bike’s value on the lock to protect it
- Smaller D-Locks are harder to defeat than big ones
- A secondary cable is used to secure the front wheel
Ok, I was going to write a comment about how you missed a spot… but I reread your post, and I will admit, this looks pretty darn secure.
I am still trying to work through the rear wheel, D-lock security, but I think it makes sense.
Thanks for including the pictures!
It works…but! I had an idiot thief destroy my back wheel in a futile attempt to steal the bike. I still use the ulock on occasion, but prefer the obvious bulk of the New York Fahgettaboudit® type locks. My grocery getter, touring bike and city bike all have euro type rear wheel locks. I love the concept of not being able to ride off without having the key on the bike. Those get suplemented with a heavy cable around a solid object and through the front wheel. I did spring for the AXA Defender lock the last time around which has a very nice plug in chain option, but still use the cable.
Aaron
yup - that’s how I used to lock my bike back when I lived in London. And even then the bastards stole my light bracket. Twice. Now I just lean it against the shop wall and don’t bother locking it, although I do take my GPS off.
Oh I do like living in the country…
The only criticism I’d have is that your D-lock isn’t “filled” - when I’m using a thinner framed bike (or locking to something thinner) I generally include the seat tube in the “U” to do that.
The idea of using a different lock for the QR cable is a good one, and not something I’d thought of. If you or your readers are looking for a smaller D-lock, the Magnum mini (sold by Halfords Bikehut) is my choice, locking to most standard sized sheffield stands with the “U” of the lock filled. When I bought mine, they were selling for £36 with a QR cable included. (Magnum locks are also sold as “On-Guard”).
John - Yep - I agree with you on this. The problem is that it’s just too damned awkward on my Sturdy Commuting bike - the frame size, chunky tyres and wheels mean that I can’t quite get the shackle around the lot. What I sometimes do is use the crank as a filler on the side that’s got the locking part (the straight part) of the D-lock. The pedal goes over the top, so unless you remove the pedal, you can’t work the lock free enough to get any sort of lever in there.
Aaron - that defender looks like quite a gizmo - especially with the plug-in chain option. I like the idea that you can’t go out on your bike & leave the keys at home. Not that that’s ever happened to me. At least not very often.