What’s A Bike Cost*

I was reading this post over on World Wide Cycles’ blog about the very reasonable prices you can pay for a second hand bike that’s been ridden by Lance Arstrong.

At the moment, I’m thinking about building up a tri-bike for next year. I’ve identified a carbon frame in clear lacquer, and I’m starting to sniff around for components. If I do build it, the finished article (Dead Poets’ Bikes’ project codename: Blake) will probably run to £1,200 - £1,600.

But this sort of goes against the grain - I like bikes to be fun to ride, but they should also be a cheep form of transport. The best value bikes for "utility cycling" (dreadful phrase) are second-hand ones. For something around the cost of a flat-pack piece of junk, you can get something that’s outstanding.

More importantly, if you’re new to cycling, they represent a far sounder investment. If the bike you buy isn’t quite right, you can sell it on for pretty much what you paid for it.

I’ve bought four second-hand bikes:

  • 1989: Raleigh Record Sprint. £70. This bike lasted me as my only ride until about 2005, though there were about ten years in which it sat in the shed unused and unloved. I converted it to a fixed-wheel training bike in 2007. The frame finally gave up earlier this year. Price per year: £3.50!
  • 2008: Wife’s bike, Lilac. £35. A lady’s bike through and through. Not quite as classy as a Pashley perhaps, but Wife loves it. Price per year: £17.50
  • 2008: Pashley tandem circa 1978. £50, plus a lot of re-building - £250 total. But look - it’s a bright yellow tandem for just £250!
  • 2009: Replacement frame for the fixed-wheel training bike. £35, plus £20 to paint it black. Wonder if this one will last 20 years . . . ?

So second hand bikes . . . worth the investment?

The title of this post is linked to the first joke I learned from my father:

News reports are coming in about a terrible accident betweena lorry and a tellycost.

What’s a tellycost?

About £200 for a small LCD one, or starting at about £500 for a larger plasma screen.

sorry to inflict that on you.

Filed under: Bike Culture, Where I Shop

4 Responses to “ What’s A Bike Cost* ”

  1. Kim Crystal on November 24, 2009 at 3:58 pm

    Bicycles do not have to be expensive. Here in the United States, Wal-Mart sells new ones for the equivalent of about £60. They’re not great, but they do function as bicycles.

  2. viky on November 25, 2009 at 1:35 am

    Hey if we look in to the cars and motorbikes, then the price are high with comfort level. But is that the case in bikes too? I am not sure of this! Can anybody just tell me if this is the case?

  3. Karl On Sea on November 25, 2009 at 12:55 pm

    I think it depends - you can buy expensive used cars and expensive used bikes that are expensive. They tend to be sports cars & “road” (sports) bikes, though a top end used road bike will cost just a tiny fraction of the equivalent car.

    If you want comfort in a second hand bike, then setting a budget of a few tanks of fuel’s worth in a car will get you something that won’t depreciate, will last more or less forever, and be considerably higher quality than the equivalently priced Wal*Mart / ASDA / Tesco flat-packed bicycle shaped object.

  4. 14bikes on November 26, 2009 at 1:44 pm

    Kim: Most cyclists refer to Wal-Mart bikes (Huffy, Schwinn, et. al) as a “BSO” or Bicycle Shaped Object. While some have had success with a new bike for $100 (60 GBP) or less, it is rare. The majority of these people do one of two things: Ride a lot and spend a lot of money on repairs or quit riding because it is too expensive to fix.

    Used bikes are often a very good deal. 4 of my current 6 bikes are used bikes and all function well (save for the free Huffy cruiser that operates terrible and has less than 5 miles ridden on it.). There are many things to check out with a used bike, such as the wheels being properly round to the drivetrain being in good working order. $100 can usually score a decent used bike, but if you don’t know what to look for, you likely can’t repair it yourself and can expect another $100 in labor at your local bike shop to get it right.

    Vinky: Comfort is relative. Full suspension bikes are often marketed for their “comfort” and “shock absorbing” properties, but this really isn’t always a benefit. A lighter weight bike with no front or rear suspension will operate more smoothly and predictably at the expense of an occasional jarring from an unexpected pothole. The best way to be comfortable on any bike is to have one that fits you properly. Removing strain on knees, elbows, low back, buttocks, and wrists can all be done by visiting a local bike shop and asking them to fit your bike to you. Most shops this is a free service to “get you close” to optimal position. Some will have a more thorough procedure for a fee. In my experience, the “get you close” is sufficient unless you ride more than 150 miles per week.